Monday, June 7, 2010

How to Build a Slackline

How to Build a Slackline


How to Build a Slackline

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Maybe you've tried a friend's slackline, or read the How to Walk a Slackline featured article, and now you're keen to figure out how you can build one on your own. This article will show you how to build your own slackline, using a couple of trees, some ordinary climbing gear, simple knots, and a carabiner pulley system to tighten the line. The end result is a fusion between a tightrope and a trampoline--a bouncy, highly-tensioned, single-line playground that you can carry around in a stuff sack. Once you learn the steps and gather your supplies, you can set this up in just five minutes.

Steps

  1. Gather your supplies. Slacklines are typically built from 1" (25mm) tubular webbing, although other materials can be used. A typical setup includes:
    • 50 feet (15 meters) (or more) of webbing for the main line
    • 2 pieces of 10-15 foot (3-4.5 meter) lengths of 1" (25mm) tubular webbing for the anchors
    • 5 carabiners (climbing-strength, oval-shaped)
    • 2 pieces of carpet, cardboard or other sturdy material for protecting the tree anchors.
  2. Select the anchor points. A good length for beginners is about 15-20 feet between anchors. Find an area clear of sharp objects--smooth grassy areas are ideal. Shorter spans are easier to learn on than longer spans and allow for a lower line.
  3. Build the anchors. Choose anchors capable of holding about 500-1000 pounds (226 kg-453 kg) of lateral force: medium-to-large trees, cemented poles, truck hitches, eye-bolts, etc. When using trees for anchors, make sure to protect the trees by padding the area of contact with carpet or other sturdy material. Wrap the loop of webbing around the first anchor about 2-3 feet (60-90cm) off the ground for a 15-20 foot (4.5-6 meters) length. Attach a carabiner to the two ends. Repeat for the second anchor using two carabiners instead of one.
  4. Attach the line to the first anchor. Connect the webbing to the carabiner on the first anchor with any secure knot. Or, if you're good with knots tie a munter hitch[1] with a half-hitch backup to make it easy to untie when disassembling.
  5. Attach the other end of the line to two carabiners. Tie two carabiners to the line about 80% of the way to the second anchor. Use a clove hitch here or two half-hitches. This makes untying easier and helps keep the line flat.
  6. Build a 'primitive' pulley system tied off with half hitches[2] or a clever friction knot[3] to secure the line. Then, pass the line through the first carabiner attached to the anchor, then through the first carabiner on the line end.
    • Repeat for the third and fourth carabiners on the anchor and line. You should have a zig-zag pattern connecting the carabiners--the "pulley".
    • Pull tightly, using about 50-100lbs (or more) of pulling force.
    • Grab the lines in the pulley with one hand and tie off the loose end with three half-hitches. Alternately, use a tightening system that comes with a specialty slackline kit.
  7. Tighten your line. You can experiment with tying the line very taut or moderately taut. If the line is too loose, it will lose many of its dynamic qualities and sag excessively. Make sure, however, that the line is tight enough so that it will not touch the ground at any point along your path over it.

Video

Tips

  • Buy more webbing than you need for the span between anchors. Although, you may only want a slackline that's 20 feet long, you'll need about 20 more feet to operate the pulley system.
  • Use different colored webbing for the anchors and main line. This makes it easy to sort out your supplies when setting up the slackline.
  • Get more leverage when tightening the line by wrapping the webbing around a sturdy stick. As the distances increase, you'll need more leverage to tighten the line. Tie the webbing to a stick with a clove hitch and several wraps around the pulling end of the webbing to get a better grip on the line.
  • Piggy-back pulley systems to maximize tightening for long lines. Instead of pulling directly on the webbing used for tightening, run this webbing through another pulley system attached to another nearby anchor. Ideally, the other anchor is in line with your line. Although somewhat complicated, this will provide an enormous amount of leverage, for those extra long lines.
  • Combine pulling strength with two or three friends. Get a friend or two to help pull the line with you. If using a stick with a clove hitch, you can each pull on a side of the stick. Careful not to wrap the webbing around your fingers.
  • Buy a commercial tightening system. If you want a fast and easy method for setting up a slackline, consider investing in kit. Several manufacturers offer professional tightening systems and complete slackline kits.[4] Expect to pay about US$100-$200, depending on the model.

Warnings

  • Slacklines generate enormous forces on the anchors when weighted. Carefully choose anchors that can withstand up to 1000 pounds of force.
  • Do not use webbings or carabiners for climbing after they have been tensioned in a slackline.

Things You'll Need

  • Two anchor points
  • 50 feet (15 meters) of 1" (25mm) tubular webbing for a 25-foot (7.5 meters) main line with pulley system
  • 2, 10-15 foot (4.5-6 meters) pieces of 1" (25mm) tubular webbing tied into loops for the anchors
  • 2 medium to large trees or other anchors
  • Padding to protect the trees
  • 5 carabiners

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Quick tips to help you prepare clothes for charity donation

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Collectively, Americans discard two quadrillion pounds of used clothing and textiles into the landfills each year.[1]


That means every person in America discards about 6.5 million pounds of clothes every year! So recycling is very important. If you've got clothing and related items to donate to charity, it's helpful to prepare them in a way that will be acceptable for those receiving them. Here are some tips on clearing out your closet and helping others enjoy your unwanted clothing and textiles.

Steps

  1. Clean out the closet. Do a thorough declutter of the space that you want to clear out. Make the donation pile so that you know what's ready to go. When sorting through your clothes, consider:
    • Whether you really need that many t-shirts, sweaters, skirts, etc.
    • Whether you're clinging to too many baby and toddler clothes that might be better used by other children in need
    • How much hanging on to too much clothing can make your wardrobe less efficient and enjoyable.
    • Whether a particular garment or accessory still fits and flatters you or the person who wears.
  2. Prepare the clothes. While you don't have to go to any particular trouble, the following things can help a lot:
    • Check all the pockets. Staff of charity stores are used to finding money, jewelry and other forgotten items. While they might do their best to return these items to you, often it's like looking for a needle in a haystack knowing who owned the garment.
    • Wash the clothes if you can. Even dirty clothes will be accepted, but the chances of dirty clothes being resold is lower. Dirty clothes are more likely to end up as rags or recycled fabric products. So, if you want your clothes to have their best chance at being resold and worn again, wash them.
      • Be considerate. If the clothing is in very bad shape and cannot be recycled, the charity will end up having to pay money to dispose of it.[2] If you're not sure, ring up first to be certain they can use tatty or soiled clothing. Turn them into rags if the charity isn't able to recycle them, or they're really past it.
    • Wash, dry, and fold baby clothes. These clothes should not be soiled because they are often re-donated to moms in need. Use a fragrance-free detergent product to avoid allergy or sensitivity problems for the new babies who will wear these products.[3]
  3. Look for specific items that are of special help when donated:
    • Donate jeans. Jeans, and any items in denim, are very popular resale items in charity stores.[4]
    • Donate quality shoes. Shoes are fine to donate provided that they are in good condition and still wearable. There are an estimated 1.5 billion pairs of unworn or barely worn shoes are lying in closets.[5] Consider whether you're really going to wear them or if somebody else can benefit from them.
    • Professional clothing, such as suits, is always appreciated to help people looking for work or returning to work after an illness.
    • Look for accessories as well as clothes. Belts, jewelry, gloves, purses, and hats are all useful donations too.
  4. Donate bath towels, blankets, and sheets. These are really handy for animal shelters. Even towels and bedding that are threadbare can have a second life in shelters as they are used for bedding, cleaning up, and keeping animals warm.
  5. If you are in the United States, you might be able to claim back the donation as part of your tax deductions. You will need to know the original price, and you will get back 30% of that price for deduction purposes; Danny Seo recommends using Post-It™ notes to write on the value of each item so that you can show these at the charity store and get your receipt.[6] In other countries, you will need to ask if tax receipts are possible; on the whole, this is not the norm in countries such as Australia and New Zealand.
  6. Put the clothes, bedding, and other items into suitable containers. Containers that are suitable include plastic bags, garbage bags, unwanted tote and other bags (they'll get resold too if in good condition), baskets, laundry baskets, boxes, etc.
    • Consider labeling and sorting clothing if you have large amounts of specific items; doing so will make it easier for the charity workers to sort and use the clothes.
  7. Find a suitable drop-off point. There are a number of options for dropping off your clothing and other items:
    • If you need a receipt, you'll need to go into the charity store or visit a drop with an attendant.
    • Don't forget about refuges as a source of donation. Many people in refuges have left behind all of their belongings and clothing can be very helpful.[7]
    • Animal shelters will let you know which items of clothing and textiles are useful for their needs; give them a call.
    • Note that some drop-off boxes are often for-profit such as Value Village or Savers, whose main owners are Tom Ellison and Freeman Spogli & Co. a private equity company. On the other hand, if the drop-off box is clearly marked as a charity you know to be reputable and worthy of support, by all means use it (for example, Salvation Army, Goodwill, Oxfam, St Vincent de Paul's, etc.)
    • Donations of clothing are always helpful for disaster situations, such as wildfires, hurricanes, earthquakes, etc. Look at the websites of the organizations arranging help for specific disaster events.
    • In large cities like New York, you might find novel ways of collection, such as the Goodwill glass truck. It's a fun way of donating, so use it if it's in your vicinity.
    • Some charities will send a truck to collect heavy loads of clothes, and other items such as furniture and appliances. Give them a quick call to find out.
  8. Consider making regular donations. Mark your calendar for bi-yearly or quarterly clear-outs of unwanted clothing.

Video

Tips

  • Make sure you don't want the clothes before you give them away. If you have any doubts, make an "I'm not sure pile", and come back to it later.
  • Charity stores are also known as:
    • Thrift stores
    • Opportunity shops ("op shop" for short)
  • The ability for textiles to be recycled varies from region to region, dependent on the availability of recycling facilities. It really pays to call rather than assume that very old clothes are not usable.[8]
  • Some charities provide bags for door-to-door collection. You can use this as a reminder to fill a bag for your trusted charity.
  • In some countries, you can find donation "matchmaking" sites online that will find the right charity for you to donate to.[9]

Warnings

  • Make sure you arrange a time to drop off the clothes or know that the place you are going to is open. Don't leave clothing at the doors; it's unsightly, it encourages theft, and it is a hazard.
  • Don't place anything other than clothes in clothing bins. Breakables will break and those collecting the items are at risk of harm. It can also cost the charity more money to have unusable items disposed of.

Things You'll Need

  • Containers such as boxes, bags, etc.
  • Clothing
  • Scent-free laundry detergent
  • Post-It™ notes and tax receipts (optional)

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How to Build a Wood Duck House to Protect Nesting Ducklings

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Wood duck (Aix sponsa)
Wood duck (Aix sponsa)
The wood duck (Aix sponsa) is a colorful bird that usually nests in abandoned woodpecker holes, but will readily take to a nesting box of the correct dimensions, placed in the proper location.

Early in this century, wood duck populations were in decline; with a little time and effort, and some simple woodworking tools, you can help in the comeback of this fine bird by creating a wood duck nesting box for your local feathered friends.

Steps

  1. Review the plan, gather materials and tools. From one 11 1/4" (28.5 cm) wide by 12 foot (3.65 meters) long board you can make one nest box. The plan shown here explains how to divide the wood (click on the image to enlarge). It is best to use a weather resistant wood, such as cedar.

    Material Layout

  2. Lay out design
    Lay out design
    Lay out the design. Pencil draw the different pieces onto the wood. Keep in mind the importance of measuring twice, cutting once.
  3. Cut to size
    Cut to size
    Cut materials to size.

    NOTE: The back edge of the roof part should be cut with the saw adjusted to a 20 degree angle so that it fits flush with the back of the box.

    NOTE: The front board in the layout is 1/2" (12.7 mm) too long. Cut off that 1/2" (12.7 mm) with the saw at a 20 degree angle (sloping away from the box) so the roof fits flush, and is therefore watertight.
    • The parts
      The parts
      After cutting the wood, you should end up with the following pieces: a back, two sides, a front, a floor, and a roof.
  4. Dry fit to check design
    Dry fit to check design
    Dry fit the parts together to check the dimensions and angles. Do not use screws yet; it is important to fit the parts together to check the design and angles, before drilling and fastening. If anything requires adjusting, now is the time to do so.
  5. Start two holes
    Start two holes
    Create an entrance hole. It is easiest to drill the hole before assembling the box. A hole sized 3" (7.6 cm) high by 4" (10.2 cm) wide will admit ducks, but exclude raccoons. A hole of these dimensions can be created with a 3" (7.6 cm) hole saw by "staggering" two holes, as shown in the image. Locate the center of the hole 19" (48.3 cm) above the base of the front part.
    • Finish holes from other side
      Finish holes from other side
      The hole will be cleaner if drilled a little from both sides of the board.
    • Smooth out the oval
      Smooth out the oval
      Use a rotary rasp or other tool to smooth out the oval opening.
  6. Kerf cuts (for traction)
    Kerf cuts (for traction)
    Create traction. The baby ducks will need a rough surface to grasp when attempting to leave the nest, and the momma duck will appreciate a rough surface on the front of the box when she lands. This can be accomplished by attaching screen or mesh, but suitable results may be obtained by setting the saw to make shallow Kerf cuts on both the interior and exterior of the front part.
  7. Drill holes
    Drill holes
    Start assembling. With the parts prepared, assembly can begin. Ring-shanked nails can be used, but exterior deck screws (2") (5 cm) create a more durable design that can withstand the elements for several years. To avoid splitting the wood, it is advisable to pre-drill the holes first.
  8. Add screws
    Add screws
    After the hole is drilled, insert a deck screw. It is handy to have two drills, one for the hole, and the other with a bit to drive the screws.
  9. Bottom detail
    Bottom detail
    Create drainage. Recess the bottom about 1/4" (6.35 mm) from the box base in order to provide a drip edge and to avoid rot. Drill holes in the base or cut about 1/4" (6.3 mm) off the corners for ventilation and drainage.
  10. Clean-out access door
    Clean-out access door
    Make an access point. One of the side parts should be cut to provide access for cleaning out old nesting material. Hinges can be used, but it is cheaper to simply use well placed nails (near the top of the opening board) as a pivot for the door.

    NOTE: The board in this example was cut at a 20 degree angle to prevent rain water leakage into the box (water doesn't like to run up-hill).
  11. Door closure detail
    Door closure detail
    Use sturdy wire to loop together two screws heads to secure the cleaning door. Raccoons can work a simple latch.
    • A 1" X 11 1/4" (2.5 cm x 28.5 cm) strip can be used to hold the back of the lid in place and to further prevent rain water leakage (see strip on lid in final image).
  12. Wood duck nesting box
    Wood duck nesting box
    Check that the wood duck nesting box is ready to place outside. When you're happy with it, place it in a suitable location to attract the local wood ducks. Ducks Unlimited advises that a wood duck nesting box is best placed on a wooden post or a metal pole designed with predator guards.[1]
    • Boxes placed on posts in water should be about 5 feet (1.52 meters) above the water's surface.
    • Boxes may be placed in woodlands areas up to one-half mile from water in trees or on a post at least 8 feet (2.4 meters) high, but preferably 20 feet (6.09 meters) high. To reduce the chances of predation, they should be 30 to 100 feet (9.14 meters to 30.48 meters) from the water's edge.
    • Keep in mind to place the box:[2]
      • Near suitable brood habitat;
      • Near shallow, fertile wetlands with thick cover; and
      • Where there is a plentiful supply of invertebrates for eating.
    • Don't forget to add a 4" (10.16 cm) layer of wood shavings for the nesting material. Suitable shavings include "chain saw" wood chips (or cedar wood chip bedding such as found in pet stores).

Tips

  • Measure twice, cut once.
  • Use weather resistant wood.
  • Use exterior deck screws.

Warnings

  • Power tools can be dangerous, use more than common sense when using them.

Things You'll Need

  • One 3/4" X 11 1/4" X 12' long (19 mm X 28.5 cm X 3.65 meters long) cedar board
  • Tape measure, speed square, pencil
  • A circular saw
  • Two drills
  • A small box of 2" (5 cm) exterior deck screws
  • A 3" (7.6 cm) diameter hole saw

Related wikiHows

Sources and Citations

  • Woodworking for Wildlife, by Arkansas Game and Fish Commission - research source
  • A Field Guide to the Birds East of the Rockies, by Roger Tory Peterson - research source
  • Wikipedia on the wood duck - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wood_Duck

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